Living with a 2010 Husky TE 510!

FROM spark generated RFI to your bike electronic/electric components!


The coil generates a certain amount of energy. This energy wants to go somewhere. At a voltage of about 7KV the plug fires (irrespective of resistance). Until that happens NO CURRENT FLOWS. Whether you have resistance or not does not matter. A paltry 5KOhms does not do anything when compared to the nearly infinite resistance of the gap itself (until the plug fires that is).

Once the plug fires the resistance comes into being. The coil cannot get rid of its energy in the shortest possible time due to the resistance.

This reduces current flow in the spark and it takes quite a bit longer until the energy in the coil has expelled itself via resistor and spark gap. This results in a longer spark. However the spark is weaker due to energy loss in the resistor.

This is an EFI bike so the following issues are of concern:


The Effect of Electrical Backlash on Ignition Components:
On some offroad vehicles, resistive secondary components of a slightly different specification are present to reduce the electrical backlash that spark creates in the coil’s primary winding. This unwanted electrical feedback is harmful to the parts that drive the ignition system, particularly the ignition control modules (CDI boxes, igniters). Motocross bikes use resistive secondaries to protect the CDI boxes.


The Effect of RFI on Ignition Components
Third, also on offroad vehicles, resistive technology is used to reduce RFI-related malfunctions of ignition control modules that are close enough to the ignition coil to be subject to these strong, nearby radio waves. The CDI boxes or igniters on these machines are mounted close to the ignition coils, and therefore need RFI protection. Personal watercraft in particular, but also offroad motorcycles and ATVs, employ resistor technology to cope with this proximity RFI issue.


The Effect of Both Backlash and RFI on Onboard Microprocessors
Finally, any vehicle that has an onboard computer, no matter how basic, makes use of resistive ignition secondaries to ensure the protection of that computer and its many sensors from both RFI and electrical backfeed problems. Thus virtually all modern road bikes and every other powersports vehicle, whether or not it is fuel-injected, which has some form of computerized engine management system, therefore has resistors in its ignition system to protect these computers and related components.


http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/plugwiretech.html

The Husky resistor cannot be dis-assembled like on some other bikes it's a solid piece of ceramic, w/ the spark cap imbedded in it.

VICTORY !!!


I finally got it figured out.

It was not the spark plug cap although it did need to be replaced.

Since I had a bit of down time waiting for the new cap to come in I decided to triple check everything. Focus was on cam timing and valve clearance.

Well............I had the exhaust cam one tooth off. This is why it would work when kicked, but not w/ the e-start. I guess the auto-decomp was not lifting the valve at the right time.

The lesson learned is not to go by the left side marks flush w/ the engine case procedure. To verify my installation I took a paint marker and painted the marked tooth on the timing chain cam, then manually spun the engine to see where the cam teeth were meshing.

I did this first for the intake timing mark, then for the exhaust timing mark.

The intake cam was spot on and the left side mark was flush w/ the engine case, on the exhaust side the paint mark was one tooth off from the right side mark which is the important one, even w/ the left side mark flush w/ the case.

I then re-set everything, buttoned her up and she fire-up w/in three revolutions of the engine using the e-start.



Tomorrow I'll take the bike out for a quick test run to verify all is working properly.
Hopefully this ends this sad phase of this saga and bring is a new trouble free riding era.

I'll post a few pics later in the week.


Thanks for all the help and support.

Dan

WOW you have had some ups and downs with this bike! I have learned a lot about my 08 SMR 510 from reading this thread. Keep the info coming!

Tomorrow will tell!

No pics of the new timing marks?

I went and checked my bike....The plug thingy (tech term) that you plugged into the white plug on the bike is not on mine, but I have the power up kit with arrow exhaust and plug in the headpipe?

Like I said!

????????????????????????

My mistake.....I was looking at the wrong connector. My power up plug is on there in the place of the 02 sensor, it was just hidden up under the tank....Good times

Glad you finally looked at my PM'S for 8-18-2010 and 8-19-2010 Later George

Runs like a bat out of hell:





So much so that the bitch spit me off and busted my helmet:














I still love he despite her cruelty:

The Cat Scan will cost me a pretty penny though!

You were talking shit on her, she was just showing you that she wears the pants in that house!

Make sure it is insured? ... I'm frustrated also on UR bike ....This was such a great idea to have so many set backs ...

i'm also frustrated in my husqvarna (too many problems) and bought KTM 300 2T... and love that simple and lite bike!

Got it running again yesterday only to have it leave me on foot 4 blocks from the house on a test ride. The issue now seems to be intermittent some times it starts and runs fine others it will start and idle for a few seconds then shut down.

I'm pretty fed up w/ it and am out of ideas.

Looks like 'll have to take it to the clueless BMW/Husky dealership 1.5 hrs from the house to see if they can make sense of it.

I have exhausted my bag of tricks. This is what I have done so far to trouble shoot this POS:

- PC-V & Autotune completely removed
- Checked Valves
- Checked timing
- Checked Spark
- New spark plug, wire and cap
- Checked stator
- Checked fuel pump (shoots 3ft squirt across garage)
- Checked injector (actually pulled it out and saw it squirt fuel)
- Checked all grounds, disconnected, cleaned and used dielectric grease
- Checked all wires and connectors, cleaned and used dielectric grease
- Checked resistance of coil
- Fully charged battery, ran off separate battery pack too

Bike:
2010 Te-510
Full Powerup
FMF Q-4 exhaust w/ quiet tip and spark arrestor


Let me know if you have any other ideas?


Thanks for the help, Dan.

Don't give up yet...

Dan, I think that anyone that has wrenched, ridin’ or fallen off a bike feels the pain of your dilemma. Sometimes the ownership in a bike you are passionate about makes the frustration even more difficult.

I’ve thrown wrenches and kick a few parts across the garage so I truly understand what you’re going through… but I also sense that someone with your passion and mechanical ability will resolve to overcome the problems you are experiencing.

First of all this late model Husky is not a perfect bike but its not a shabby piece of riding equipment either. I own a ’09 TE310 and ’10 TE510 and I’m taking my time to get em dialed in (thanks in large part to your help in this thread).

I just got off an 03 WR450F and I remember when changing out the stator that I had a litany of electrical problems I was chasing for weeks (burned up rectifier, CPU, HID and a starting motor that still doesn’t work). Never got stranded but I missed a couple good rides and I was ready to throw it off the cliff. I ended up putting several thousand hours on that bike until the time and expense of fixing it out paced my need to have a really reliable bike… enter the TE510.

I am at a slight advantage since I’m only about 20 minutes away from Georges shop in Santa Ana and when problems arise, and we know they will, I’ll probably just take it over to the wizard and let him do his thing.

I hope you stick with the bike and are able to resolve these issues… you’ve got a lot of people on this board backing ya up.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

/ron

"Looks like 'll have to take it to the clueless BMW/Husky dealership 1.5 hrs from the house to see if they can make sense of it."

This is what your dealership is going to see - a new bike that has been Frankensteined to the point where it won't run anymore.

If this load was bought to me here’s where I’d start;

1)Dump the full coverage header pipe guard.

2)Remove the entire exhaust system and inspect all wiring/soft parts in it’s line-of sight. You’ve already replaced the cooked hot-side rad hoses (2x) – now pull and prod EVERYTHING else close by. This includes all the wiring and connectors for the throttle body (continuity and proper spring tension) and all wiring from the ignition side of the crankcase. Inspect the rubber intake boot and give it a good squeeze.

3)Pull the side cover closest to the header – inspect the coils and wiring for signs of heat stress and overload – clean the magnets and pickups of all debris and inspect the coil insulation. These have been getting the double kick of higher than stock electrical load and higher that stock case temperatures.

4)Dump the FMF and put the Arrow and spark arrestor back. The fuel curves / ignition curve are matched to the stock exhaust and stock header. Changing the header temp changed is effective (not dimensional) tuned length while the QMF core design is nothing like the original Arrow. When a bike is overheating and struggles to hot start – the fueling is out to lunch. (given fixed ignition timing)

5)Pull the tank and inspect the voltage regulator / heat sink. Make sure the heat sink compound hasn’t cooked out and the regulator assembly is good and tight to the frame. Check all wiring for heat stress. A high electrical load combined with exhaust heat (rising up from the collector pipe and trapped under IMS tank) is a stressful environment to operate in.

6)Pull the ECU module out and inspect the pins and socket. This stuff was also getting roasted by heat rising up off the exhaust system and the bad tune-up. Check all the electrical sockets for good tension.

7)Button everything up and put it on Ibeat. Record and clear codes. View the temperature readout/ geat position readout and ensure they make sense. Set all FB values to 100%. Set TPS values to achieve 100.2% full throttle with a battery voltage at 14+Vdc. Use an external power supply if you must. Move the throttle plate hard stop if required. Revisit this adjustment once the bike is warmed up. Skim through my posts on this board for a guideline on setting IAB / FB1 for best throttle response / power / efficiency.

8)Set the idle air bleed to 3 - 2.75 turns out. Disregard the engine idle speed. The idle speed is where it is after tip-in throttle response/FB1 is optimized. Mine ends up at 1950-2150 depending on a days temp and air density.

Hopefully the bike runs now. Attach your notebook and Ibeat and take it for a tour. Use the datalogger function and take a cell phone / stay close to home. I suspect the ECU or one of the sensor components in the throttle body is cooked – hopefully they will give you a few odd readings before quitting. If you’re really lucky, going back to the original exhaust system and losing the heat trapping shields will be enough.

Once the bike runs reliably, put a proper fuel tune-up in it – or take it to someone who knows what that means. I’d stay away from some one who quotes a 13.2:1 fuel ratio under low throttle and/or high intake manifold conditions. This is not a purpose-built race motor with optimized ignition timing and compression. These Huskys are (IMO) a good compromise between high end power with descent reliably for users that lug around in high gear.

Best of luck,

MAT

Danbartol-
I gotta ask the question, If you could have done it all over again would you just have left good enough alone, or would you still do all the mods all over again? I ask because I just purchased a brand new '09 and like you, love to tinker and get the most out of my machine. I did the sensor plug in the exhaust, removal of the attacking octopus, etc., but am downright fearful of going any deeper after having read your story in its entirety.