My Txc310 Is Almost Perfect

Wow did'nt realize the needles were strong enough to go through plastic..Are the cactuses hard like a tree, or do they break easy?

yea MikeB has my back with the cactus spines through the handguards thing. I think some folks called BS on me about that. I clip them off with diagonal cutters I've gotten nailed by them in the driveway when washing the bike. Yes Cactus spines, when hit at speed will come right through plastic handguards before breaking off the plant.
Also you Az riders taught me why so many at the Wickenburg Nat enduro riders had Afro picks hanging off their gear. (the best way to rake/ get Chollas off and out of your body) (those needles are surgically sharp)

And to think i complain about sticker bushes. Never again will i shed a tear over a thorn. I will think of the cactus needles protruding from your hand gaurds and body,and all will be fine.

Here's a small sample

holy crap

Had a good 2 hour GP race last weekend and the 310 started quickly and got me to the end of a long start straight in 3rd and ran well.

But ... I've got 39.5 hours on her now and had my first problem today. After about 10 to 15 minutes of single track riding at speed it developed a hesitation at mid rpm and a little pop on decel. So... when slowing for turns it would give a soft pop or 2 and then when I rolled into the gas it would miss as it slowly accelerated until the rpm got up around 8 or 9 k and then it seemed to run fine. I ran it for about 5 minutes like that and it just got worse so I took a shortcut back to the truck. ... I'm thinking it's probably something with the fuel pump/filter and am heading out to the garage to look.

P.S. I was starting to hate how hard it was to remove and install the gas cap. A little dab of motor oil on the rubber inside took care of that. I don't think that caused this new problem.

Can't really find anything obvious inside the gas tank - maybe the JD Jetting module is giving me a bad mixture "on the needle". I'll try disconnecting it and running the stock mixture.

Since the gas tank is empty I put the 310 on the scales: 97# front + 123# rear = 220#
Polisport Sharp handguards, AKRA Racing exhaust, Ballistic 4 cell battery, JD Tuner, Tubliss, Rekluse .... otherwise stock and full of oil.

So you've got the full-zoot Core EXP on your 310? I'd love to do that, but wow that's some big money.

Well ... still haven't figured out the missing problem. Took the bike to the shop last week and they've barely looked at it ... today they tell me that it's not the JD tuner, but seems to be electrical since it idles ok and revs out ok. The Husky rep suggested possible flywheel key (don't think so since it starts just fine) or maybe TPS. I'm hoping they get to it and adjust the TPS and that's solves it. My valves were a "little" loose but a minor shim didn't change anything. I haven't ridden in 3 weeks and the longer they keep it the more they charge me

Mike, do you have the service manual for that bike? If so,does it have the specs for the electrical components so that you can test them with a multimeter? First thing I would do is locate and clean every ground connection on the bike. It doesn't matter if they look good or not, clean and then ohm test each one. I have seen too many weird things, that mechanics never could figure out, that ended up being nothing more than a bad ground connection.

Now hurry up and get that baby fixed as we miss you out there!

Thanks Kelly - and Oregonsage - the way the problem came on it was could have been a wire slowly coming loose or melting thru or losing connection. Or an injector getting clogging. Or a fuel filter starting to split. The shop checked the TPS before I picked it up and it was fine. They are stumped and put some calls in to Husky NA.

Well, I rigged up a fuel pressure tester using a $20 kit from Harbor Freight and 2ft of 3/16 fuel hose. Fuel pressure was 50psi steady at idle and high revs but fluttering when the bike was missing. I pulled the injector and found a small piece of soft plastic just inside where the fuel enters. I rigged up a stand and a 9v battery and backwashed it with carb cleaner, re-installed, and restarted. The bike now runs worse. My guess is that it's the injector since messing with it changed things - so I'll order a new one with my "husky bucks".

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BUT WAIT _ NOT SO FAST !! I went back out an hooked up a voltmeter. I've got a good strong 14.5v at rest and 13.5 when starting, and 13.5 - 14.5 idling. In the range where it sputters and stumbles voltage drops off and my digital meter spits out readings as low as 9.5v. Surely this isn't right - but I need help ... what could cause this? Maybe the bike is trying to shut off? Something is grounding out?

I may have fixed it....swapped the original battery back in place of the Ballistic light weight unit.... and 12v at rest, 11.5 starting, 14v idling....and NO voltage drop offs and seems to be no missing. Fuel pressure holds steady just above 50psi - no fluttering. Looks like that cool light weight solid state battery may be the culprit - I suspect it is sensitive to vibration - might consider rubber mounting if you have one.

Here's a picture of the sag tool I built using a $4 Lowe's metal yardstick and a small socket bolted through the hole Lowes was kind enough to put in for hanging the tool. The socket was selected to fit snugly inside the rear axle and the scale is very easy to read against the edge of the fender.

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So was it the battery after all? Nice set up on the sag tool. The picture is worth a thousand words, thought you were using a spare 27mm socket now I see that it goes inside the axle.

I'm pretty there's something wrong with the Ballistic battery. The bike has it's old sound back - I can't make it stumble or sputter sitting in the garage - and I'm showing 12v not running and 14v running at the battery which tells me the charging system is functioning. I'll get it out as soon as possible to be sure - I think it'll run fine so I'll swap the Ballistic back in and see what happens when I'm holding it out of the bike so it doesn't vibrate and when I hold it against the bike so it does vbrate.